Chapter 15 – Inspecting Service Utility Equipment & Exterior Electrical

We will continue our inspection with the service utility equipment and exterior electrical.

Have I mentioned that the most screwed up things I encountered during my inspection career were electrical issues created by residents? I truly am surprised that we do not hear more news stories about electrocuted homeowners. I think we should count our blessings.

The electric utility company will bring power into your main service panel from an underground line or overhead pole. The overhead power lines are strung from a pole and connected to a set of cables that run out of your main service panel.

Overhead power lines have maximum height and minimum clearance requirements when crossing over streets, driveways, walkways, roofs and within the physical reaching distance of windows, decks, stairs, porches, balconies and elevated walking surfaces. The following (unofficial) chart shows the minimum clearances accepted in most jurisdictions.

Wires over swimming pools are generally not allowed. Exceptions indicate lines should be at least 18 feet over the general area.

The power company service lines should not be in contact with trees and should be securely anchored to the building or the mast pipe. These cables should not rely on the connector splices to hold them in place.

The cables from the main service panel travel up through a pipe called a mast and out of a cap called a weatherhead. The weatherhead is designed to face downward so water does not enter the pipe and flow into the service panel.

The mast pipe should not be bent and should be securely attached to the building. The cables themselves should have what is called a drip loop. The drip loop allows water to drip off the wire rather than run down into the mast and service panel.

The service panel exterior cover should be properly secured. Breakers should be labeled and any open spaces created by missing breakers should be sealed. Such open blanks are always listed as a HAZARD. This was another one of those over and over again findings.

The home inspector will be removing the main service panel’s interior cover, called the “Dead Cover”, and inspecting the inside of the box. It is called a “Dead Cover” for a reason.

HAZARD

DO NOT REMOVE THIS COVER UNLESS YOU ARE A LICENSED ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR.

This is one of the areas you should not venture into. The risk of injury is very high for an inexperienced person. This also applies to any sub panels and old style fuse boxes located on the property.

Obstructions in front of the main service panel should be removed. Code requires clearance of at least 3 feet around the panel to allow access for a service technician or any person who needs to turn off the power in an emergency.

Conduit connections should be secure and watertight.

Exposed electrical wiring should be installed in conduit to protect it from the weather, animal and human contact.

Electrical wiring splices should be placed in a junction box. Splicing with electrical tape is not acceptable. Frayed wires and use of extension cords as permanent wiring should be removed if you want to avoid a note on a home inspection report.

Exterior outlets should be tested using the tester mentioned in a previous chapter. The chart in Chapter 7 indicates that exterior outlets should be G.F.C.I. protected from 1973 on.

Exterior outlets exposed to weather and moisture need to be protected with weather covers. Have a licensed electrical contractor replace these covers to avoid electrocution.

All exterior electrical fixtures (lighting, outlets, junction boxes, etc) must be properly secured and in good condition.

REPLACE ANY BURNED OUT LIGHT BULBS.

There, I said it again!

Hire a licensed electrical contractor for any electrical modifications or repairs. This includes any and all work done to the main service panel or any sub panels.

Your gas supply will either be natural gas provided by the utility company through a meter or propane delivered by truck to an onsite or community tank.

The natural gas meter and community propane gas meter should have a valve that can be turned off with a crescent wrench or pliers in the event of an emergency.

The shut off valve for a propane system will be at the tank and there may also be additional valves at the exterior of the building.

Be sure there is no odor of gas around any observable fitting, pipe or connection.

Be sure fuel oil tanks are properly vented and the filter is replaced per the supplier’s recommendations.

Backup generator systems that may be present for alternative electrical power in the event of blackouts must be installed with equipment that isolates the generator from the electrical grid when in use.

If you are running a generator and are still hooked into the grid, you are electrifying the power lines and could potentially injury a lineman who is working to restore the power to your neighborhood.

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UTILITY EQUIPMENT & EXTERIOR ELECTRICAL:
REMEDIES AND SOLUTIONS

Replace any broken or missing outlet, switch or junction box cover plates. They are inexpensive and easy to install. Please remember that the wires attached to the switches and receptacles inside junction boxes are potentially hot and dangerous.

The non-contact tester mentioned in a previous chapter can be used to determine if there is power at a wire.

REPLACE ANY BURNED OUT BULBS.

There, I said it again.

If you smell gas contact the gas provider immediately. They will not charge you to identify the source of a leak and may even repair the problem at no charge.

Working with electricity can be hazardous and sometimes fatal. Do not attempt to work on electrical items or fixtures yourself. If you identify any electrical problems call a licensed electrical contractor.

Record your findings on the provided worksheets. Having identified and located these items before the electrical contractor arrives will expedite the time needed to correct them. In this game, time is money. You already know the advantage of having these issues resolved before the home inspector arrives.

PHOTO GALLERY

An additional 59 images with descriptive captions are available in the 27 Dollar Home Inspections eBook.

Click here to move on to
Chapter 16 – Inspecting Exterior Siding Materials & Exterior Walls