Chapter 8 – Inspecting Kitchen/Bath Plumbing & Fixtures

We will continue our inspection with kitchen and bath plumbing and fixtures.

Modifications and do-it-yourself repairs to plumbing components are very common.  Although it may not seem as potentially dangerous as playing around with electrical fixtures, plumbing installations and repairs improperly done can lead to devastating problems due to water intrusion, flooding and bacterial exposure from leaking sewer pipes.

Directing the flow of contaminated wastewater away from the building for proper treatment is important to you and the health of your family.  It is my understanding that water borne disease from sewer leaks has made many home inspectors sick and even resulted in death.  Proceed with care.

There are several plumbing locations throughout your home.  In this chapter we will address the kitchen and bathroom areas.

When checking plumbing pipes and water valves I would run my hand along the pipes and valves feeling for moisture.  Feeling for moisture was necessary because it wasn’t visible from the location where I was standing or kneeling.  I would also gently tug on the pipes, particularly at the junction fittings and connections to determine if they were tight.  Many times there was a loose tailpipe fitting or collar nut that was just waiting for a chance to leak.  I was very careful to keep from scratching my hand on sharp edges.  There is nothing worse than an the infection you can get from the bacteria living in water soaked areas.

KITCHEN

The dishwasher and refrigerator are covered in a later chapter but you may want to start your dishwasher in order to inspect its water supply and drain for leaks.  If you choose to start the dishwasher, please read the information about the dishwasher door and securing brackets in Chapter 10 before proceeding.

Inspect the plumbing valves of the faucets at the sink(s).  You will recognize them as the HOT and COLD knobs.  The hot water valve should be on the left.  If not, the plumbing supply lines are reversed.  Sometimes there is only one lever to turn on the water.  Moving the lever to the left should provide hot water and right for cold water.  If hot water is not produced from the left, the plumbing supply lines are reversed and should be corrected.

People naturally expect this left/right orientation so a scalding hazard exists if the valves are improperly plumbed.

Record water leaking from around the water control valve handles or out of the spout swivel base.  Leaking faucets should be repaired or replaced.  Grasping a swivel spout and gently lifting up and down should not result in a leak at the fixture.  The video demonstrates this procedure.

When you first open the sink base cabinet doors, you may react as we do: “Where did all this stuff come from?”  The space under the sink is a convenient place to hide things you do not want on the counter.

This brings us back to an old issue.

If the areas under the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, in the closet, the laundry room or in any other space are so cluttered that they cannot be inspected, the home inspector will report: “Note:  Unable to inspect due to storage or personal property.”

Do you remember the home inspector’s creed we discussed at the beginning of this program?

“Detect it, describe it, defer it.”

In this case, the home inspector has deferred to the homeowner.

The result is that Dreaded Buyer’s Doubt.  In some cases the prospective buyer may want to have those areas reinspected and ask for an addendum to the original report.

It may be your responsibility to pay for this additional inspection.  A reinspection could also mean additional repairs because bumped plumbing joints and valves have a tendency to loosen, deteriorate, crack or break.  This could lead to dripping and eventually a bad leak.

Since these small leaks may be hidden, they can do a lot of damage before they are noticed.

Once you have cleared out the stuff from under the sink, you will be able to view the supply lines and valves, the waste lines and “P” or “J” traps.

As I have stated before, as you continue to work with this information, you will know what a home inspector contends with to complete an inspection.  Remember, the goal is to get them to think:  “Does a home inspector live here?”

Under the sink waste pipe plumbing materials will include metal, plastic, copper and ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, or the recognizable black waste pipe), and should be properly configured with a “P” or “J” trap.  The photo gallery will show the different configurations.

The “P” or “J” traps have two functions.  First, the water that remains in the saddle of the pipe provides a seal that prevents sewer gasses and odors from venting into the living space.  Second, the trap will catch items that might accidentally drop down the drain.

“S” traps are not considered appropriate because the trap could siphon if there is enough velocity in the water passing through the drain.

After running the water for a few moments, inspect for leaks in the drainpipe and the connection between the sink and the pipe.  Grasp the drainpipes below the sink and make sure they are secure.  Check for loose or cracked collar nuts.  I always tightened the plastic ones by hand when I found them loose.

The corrugated plastic pipe available from the local hardware store is not recommended waste pipe material.  The waste drainpipe should have a smooth, continuous inner surface so that debris cannot collect in the grooves and accelerate the chance for blockage.  This also prevents bacterial breeding.  Corrugated pipe was designed for emergency repairs, not permanent installation.

If a particular sink drains slowly compared to the others in the house, the home inspector will make a note in the report.

Check for leaks in the waste lines from the garbage disposal and the connection between the disposal and sink.

FYI:  The garbage disposal may also be referred to as a “Food Grinder.”

WARNING

The disposal is an electric appliance and loose, open or improper wiring could be a HAZARD.  This is especially true if the floor of the sink base cabinet is wet from a leak or spilled liquids.  The outlet in this area for the disposal, dishwasher and possibly other electrical appliances should have been checked in the previous chapter.

If you started the dishwasher at the beginning of your kitchen plumbing inspection, it should be well into its cycle by now.  Inspect the water supply line, control valve, drain pipe and air gap for leaks.  (AIR GAP – The purpose of an air gap is to prevent contaminated wastewater from siphoning from the disposal or drainpipe back into the dishwasher).

An air gap is a small fixture that attaches to the top of the sink or countertop that breaks the flow of wastewater as it moves from the dishwasher to the drainage system.

Two lengths of drainpipe extend from the bottom of the air gap fixture.  One is the hose from the dishwasher.  The second connects to the garbage disposal or waste drainpipe.  Depending on local codes, installing an air gap fixture may not be necessary.  Another method allows the drainage hose to be installed and secured with a large loop between the point where it discharges from the dishwasher and enters the drain.

Think of a bell-shaped curve.  When the dishwasher stops pumping the water out, water in the drain hose before the air gap or loop will drain back towards the appliance.  Water that has been pumped past the air gap or loop will flow towards the drainpipe.  This “breaking” action of the flow of water prevents a condition called “Cross Contamination.”  Cross contamination of fresh and wastewater supplies are considered a hazard and are reported in the home inspection report.

It is not normal when water from your dishwasher drains out of the air gap device installed on the countertop or sink.  Some people think this is how it is supposed to work.  Not so.  This condition may be occurring if a knockout plug on the disposal is still present or the drain line is plugged.

The water “angle stop” valves under the sink need to be checked for slight leaks around the handles.  I do not recommend that you turn the handles if they haven’t been operated for a long time.  You may create a leak.  Experienced home inspectors do not turn these valves.  A leak could cause damage to the cabinet floor and wall.

Bad leaks can cause severe damage and could result in organic growth in the wall behind the sink, the wall plate and the floor.

If you have additional appliances such as an instant hot water dispenser or water filter system, check their operation and check for leaks.

Check to see that the kitchen sink is secured to the base cabinet.

BATHROOMS

The same approach used in the kitchen will now be applied for the bathroom sinks, faucets and drains.

During my inspections I would close the drainstopper and fill the basin halfway to three quarters full of water.  By the way, do not walk away from the sink if you do this!

Opening the drainstopper puts a load on the drainpipe connections which helps identify small leaks at the trap and waste drainpipe.  A leak will occur if the small nut that secures the drainstopper actuator rod in the sink tailpipe is loose.

Next, take hold of the sink and countertop and insure it is secured to the base cabinet.  Check wall mounted or porcelain pedestal sinks to see if they are securely mounted to the wall and the components are properly fastened to each other.

The next item to check will be the toilet.

The toilet has a cold water supply line that is attached to the bottom of the toilet tank and to an angle stop valve at the lower part of the wall behind the toilet.  Check both connections for leaks.

Inspect the tank, lid and bowl for cracks.  Does the toilet run on after flushing?  Does it have backing up problems?  We checked to see if the toilet was securely mounted in the chapter on flooring.

Condensation under the toilet tank will create an ideal environment for the growth of mildew.  Inspect the bottom of the toilet tank for mildew.

I mentioned that I live and work in a resort community where there are a lot of mountain cabins.  Many times these buildings were vacant for months between visits by the owners.  Water condensation dripping off cold pipes and porcelain toilet tanks was common.  This moisture was often the reason mildew began appearing around the toilet and tank.

Next we will inspect the tub and shower.

Shower stalls and tubs can be grouted tiles, marble, onyx or cultured marble panels, granite, fiberglass, plastic, porcelain over steel, cast iron, fiberboard and so on.

Look for cracked, chipped or broken pieces which could indicate a potential leak area.  Check the caulking or grout between the tub rail and shower sides for gaps, spaces or deterioration.

Check the caulking and sweep around the shower doors for possible leaks.

Bypass or enclosure type shower doors and partitions should be made of tempered glass.  Look for the “bugs” you learned about in the chapter on windows.  As a reminder, any windows around the tub should be tempered glass.

Inspect the shower and tub water control valves for leaks, loose handles and hot and cold orientation.  I have often found the hot and cold valves reversed on large fiberglass tubs where the valves are on the tub rail.  The hot water valve should be on the left for the person who is IN the tub. They are the one who could get scalded if the wrong handle is turned.

If you have a spa tub, check its jet and air injection operation.  Some home inspectors will not fill a spa tub and check it if they have to reach into the water to open the drain.

Another issue that shows up over and over again is a gap between the tub spout and wall.  The gap should be sealed.

Check for missing drain grates in the tubs and showers.  Look for loose escutcheon plates around water pipes that penetrate through walls.  The photo gallery shows examples of loose escutcheon plates.

While in the bathroom, tighten any loose towel bars.
______________________________

KITCHEN/BATH PLUMBING & FIXTURES FINDINGS: REMEDIES AND SOLUTIONS

If you are not experienced with plumbing repairs or replacements, I recommend that you contact a licensed plumbing contractor or a handyman to do any needed repairs, particularly with the waste drain lines.  Bacteria and other little nasties live and grow in these lines and can create serious health issues for the do-it-yourselfer.

Caulking is easy to do but may look very messy if not done correctly.

Tightening loose pipes is not difficult on plastic and ABS components.  However, metal pipes usually require wrenches.  Many times the ABS products are glued in place and will require saws to remove.

Water leaks at angle stop valves and supply pipes can turn into big problems if you are not careful.  I do not recommend you attempt repairs unless you are experienced.

Get rid of corrugated plastic pipes.  Such pipes will generate an automatic note.

Water faucets that leak are usually cheaper to replace than repair.  Care must be taken to insure the hot and cold orientation is correct.

Run the spa tub with disinfectant and give it a good rinse afterwards.  Many home inspectors will not fill and run a whirlpool tub, but if he/she does, you want to be sure the tub’s internal pipes have been rinsed thoroughly.

Clean all mildew.  Clear out as much or your personal belongings as you can from under the cabinets to provide easy access for the home inspector.

Home inspectors and termite inspectors will report damaged cabinet bases.

PHOTO GALLERY

Like the electrical systems, plumbing issues generated a lot of photos.  I believe these photos provide an excellent way to communicate and provide the recognition necessary to help you identify trouble spots.

An additional 56 images with  descriptive captions are available in the 27 Dollar Home Inspections eBook.

Click here to move on to
Chapter 9 – Inspecting Kitchen/Bath Cabinetry & Countertops

Chapter 9 – Inspecting Kitchen/Bath Cabinetry & Countertops

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Filed under: Chapter 8 – Inspecting Kitchen/Bath Plumbing & Fixtures • Inspection Training

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