Chapter 10 – Inspecting Kitchen Appliances
We will continue our inspection with kitchen appliances.
The kitchen is one of the most important rooms in a home. The importance of this room cannot be over stated from both a practical and social point of view. The kitchen is a place where we eat, socialize and traditionally connect with each other. Homebuilders recognized this important function and the workspaces in modern kitchens reflect our need for this interaction.
We begin with the cooktop and oven.
Before turning on the burners and oven we need to check for the presence of a little known device. It is an anti-tipping bracket designed to secure a slide-in stove/oven so it will not rock or tip forward if too much weight is placed on the open oven door, such as an inquisitive child or a very large Thanksgiving Turkey.
FYI: Slide-in stove/ovens are those that sit directly on the floor. Drop-ins are set in a cabinet and are usually flush with the countertop. Built-in ovens do not include a cooktop and are usually built into the wall or cabinet.
The anti-tipping bracket should be supplied as a part of the installation package from the appliance manufacturer. However, it is oftentimes overlooked.
The bracket is hidden at the rear of the stove. Do not pull the stove out to see it since doing so could damage the flooring. There is test we can perform that not only verifies its presence, but also demonstrates its function. The video will demonstrate the test.
Sometimes our visual inspection goes beyond what we can actually “see” to include what we are able to “observe” with testing, knowledge and experience.
If you do not feel totally confident with the following procedure, skip this test. Do not do anything if you feel unsure.
TAKE CARE WHEN TIPPING THE OVEN AND REMOVE EVERYTHING OFF THE COOKTOP BEFORE PROCEEDING.
With the help of an assistant, open the oven door and CAREFULLY press down on the door while pulling at the rear of the stove with a firm grip. The rear of the appliance should only raise an inch or so. Do not damage your oven door.
If the unit does not stop rocking forward within 2 inches, STOP. There is a chance the bracket is missing. If this is the case, a qualified appliance technician or handyman should install one.
Check the electric elements and gas burners for proper lighting and heating. If there is a clock, does it operate? Are the markings on the knobs legible? If present, do the digital display and controls operate properly?
Check the oven door gasket for cracks. Operate the broiler. Does the electric element or gas burner ignite and operate properly? Does the self-cleaning latch operate?
Place a thermometer in the middle of the center rack. Select “Bake” and set the temperature at 400 degrees. You can find a thermometer at any grocery, drug or hardware store or order one through Amazon.com by clicking here: CDN Oven Thermometer
The oven may not have reached full temperature when the pre-heat alarm sounds. This takes several minutes. You are looking for a reading on the thermometer that is within 5 to 10 degrees of the 400 degree dial or digital setting.
Inspect the range hood and exhaust fan. The fan and light over the stove may be part of an installed microwave oven. Whether you have a metal hood or microwave appliance, check the fan operation at all speeds for function and excessive noise. Check the light to make sure it is functioning. You already know my opinion about burned out lights.
If there is a build-up of oil and grease on the range hood, clean it. This is a potential fire hazard and it is sure to generate a note in the home inspection report.
In a previous chapter we discussed the problem with corrugated pipe often found under sinks. A similar issue is flexible, corrugated metal duct tubing used over the range hood. The irregular shape of the tubing causes a rapid build-up of grease and oil inside the duct and increases the chances for a grease fire.
Vinyl duct tape is not recommended for use on a heated duct pipe. Metal tape is the proper material. Corrugated duct and vinyl tape will generate a note. The metal ducting may be difficult to replace, but installing metal duct tape is simple and inexpensive.
The same applies for retractable cooktop exhaust fans and downdraft cooktop exhaust fan ducting.
Next let’s check the dishwasher. Open the dishwasher door. Look at the top of the unit near the door opening to see if the appliance has been secured to the cabinet. You should see two screws and brackets holding the dishwasher cabinet to the kitchen cabinet. If they are missing, make a note on your check sheet. This item always generates a note.
Inspect for any rust in the door and cabinet and check the door gasket for any deterioration or cracks.
Pull the trays out and spin the spray impellers to see if they are being obstructed by anything stuck in the dishwasher.
FYI: If there are dings or dents in the dishwasher cabinet door, you may be surprised to know that many manufactures provide additional door skins under the existing door facing. They are different colors, but you may be able to replace a damaged door skin at no cost.
Start the dishwasher and set it to “NORMAL.” If you have some dirty dishes, you might as well wash them while it runs through its cycle.
While the dishwasher is running, you are checking for unusual motor noises and leaks. Obviously you know what your dishwasher sounds like, but you might be surprised what you hear when you are purposefully listening rather than intentionally “tuning” out the noise.
We mentioned the dishwasher air gap device in the plumbing chapter. Again, water should not run out of this device when the dishwasher drains.
Does your microwave oven work? To test, fill a microwavable cup with cold water and heat it in the microwave for 25 seconds at full power.
WARNING
Whenever you heat just water in a microwave, it is always a good habit to place a toothpick on top of the water so that it won’t explode when you disturb it on removal. The toothpick helps absorb the energy the microwave creates.
Do the microwave controls work properly? The door of the microwave should also be checked for any cracks and to see if it latches properly and securely.
If possible, you may want to collect all of the operator’s manuals and information you have been saving on the various appliances in your home. Your buyers will thank you for making these available.
Next inspect the garbage disposal. Inspect the “weir” gasket. That is the expandable rubber gasket where you dump food into the disposal. The gasket should be soft, flexible and closed enough so it is difficult to see down into the disposal.
Always use cold water when operating the disposal. Without turning on the disposal, turn on the water and check again under the sink for any possible leaks in the disposal and associated plumbing. As I mentioned before, I would run my hand along the pipes feeling for moisture. I also tugged on them gently, particularly at junction connections to see if they were loose.
Make sure the disposal is properly secured to the bottom of the sink.
Inspect the disposal casing at the front and rear. If you notice rust or deterioration around the casing, the disposal needs to be replaced.
HAZARD
If rust or water is noticed on the outside of the casing do not touch the disposal while it is operating.
Here is where you get to see how the stuff under your kitchen sink can hinder the inspection process. This is a tight area and it is not easy to see the back of the disposal unless the area is relatively clear. Make sense? Having this area cleaned before the home inspector arrives is a wonderful idea.
We spoke briefly about the wiring connection on the disposal in the chapter on electrical. The cord for the disposal should not be made of “Romex” type wiring unless it is properly clamped and installed in conduit. If the cord is a common appliance cord the end should be clamped at the bottom of the disposal. If you have an air switch that activates the disposal, the same rules apply to the installation and wiring of that device as well.
If everything looks ok, turn on the disposal and watch for any leaks. There can be a leak high up on the unit that is not detectable unless it is operating.
Another common appliance is a trash compactor. I always opened the compactor before operating. Some people use them as storage compartments rather than trash receptacles. Make notes if you have a compactor that does not function properly or needs attention. A way to test the compactor ram is to stick a piece of scotch tape or masking tape across the wastebasket and then run the unit. The tape will be broken if the ram actually moved.
Another popular appliance is an under counter wine cooler. They function differently than a refrigerator because they have to maintain proper temperature and humidity levels to prevent damaging the delicate beverage. If your wines are turning to vinegar or the wine appears to be evaporating mysteriously through the cork, it is time for an appliance technician to have a look.
The next appliance to inspect is the refrigerator. Check the door seals, the light and the general appearance of this appliance. If it has an icemaker and water dispenser be sure they are functioning properly.
Check for gas appliance valves that are not being used. Such valves should have a cap installed.
Now would be a good time to check your oven temperature. A variation of more than 10 degrees either way should be adjusted by an appliance technician.
The dishwasher has been running for a while. Check for any leaks around the door and in front of the unit.
Over time we have a tendency to mentally adjust to the idiosyncrasies of our appliances. So if there are any little adjustments you personally make when operating your appliances, make a note to have them repaired. I guarantee if you don’t and the home inspector finds it, it will be on the report and you may end up replacing an appliance that could have been repaired by an appliance technician for a lot less money.
I want to point out that this is your home, your belongings and your property until the close of escrow. An “as is” sale could suggest to your buyer that you know there are things wrong with your home that you are not willing to fix.
After the home inspection report is received the buyer may not ask you to repair or replace anything but may low ball your asking price to take care of all the noted items on the home inspection report. Your goal is to minimize those items, save money and put more cash in your pocket at the close of escrow.
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KITCHEN APPLIANCES: REMEDIES AND SOLUTIONS
Except for cleaning, replacing light bulbs and perhaps replacing an old garbage disposal, major appliances should be serviced or repaired by a qualified appliance technician.
In some cases, the cost of repairing an appliance could be close to the cost of replacement. However, it pays to have your appliances checked before deciding. If a technician suggests the appliance be replaced, ask him if he knows where you can purchase one at a discount. It never hurts to ask. It is surprising what you can learn and achieve by asking honest questions.
May I suggest another direction you can try?
There is a fantastic program that gets very little attention but provides an excellent security net for both the seller and the buyer. For very little money, you can leverage a nationwide company to help protect your equity profit, add power to your negotiating position, increase the buyer’s sense of security and dramatically reduce the chance for future problems. Your Realtor may even financially participate in this program with you.
It is called a home warranty. This is a strategy I highly recommend for strengthening your position as a home seller. Here is some good information for you to consider on this matter.
THE VALUE OF A HOME WARRANTY
A home warranty adds to the attractiveness of a home sale, but did you know:
• 8 out of 10 buyers prefer to buy a home with a warranty.1
• Homes with warranties return a sales price that averages 3% higher.2
• Homes on the market with a warranty included sell on average 50% faster than homes without.3¹ Gallup Poll
² Business Week Magazine
³ National Home Warranty AssociationA seller’s home warranty can protect you throughout the listing period and beyond while making your property more attractive than homes listed without home warranties. Once sold – all parties in the transaction will be relieved; you will be relaxed, knowing that any appliance breakdown will no longer be a concern of yours.
The buyer will be more confident knowing he won’t be shelling out for unexpected household system and appliance repair.
You won’t be bothered by the threat of post-sale litigation with a home warranty protecting your household systems and appliances.
You won’t get stuck having to deal with appliance repair issues and arrangements after you’ve sold the house. A good warranty company takes care of all that.
Providing a home seller warranty gives buyers a perception of increased security and value. In this case, perception IS reality.
Promote buyer confidence with a home seller warranty included in your sale. Your prospective buyers will breathe a sigh of relief when they see this added caveat that sweetens the home purchasing process and can be just the item to close the deal.
PHOTO GALLERY
An additional 16 images with descriptive captions are available in the 27 Dollar Home Inspections eBook.
Click here to move on to
Chapter 11 – Inspecting Laundry Areas
